Pasta

For the meatballs, combine the bread and buttermilk in a small bowl. Let sit for 10 minutes, mashing occasionally with a fork, until a smooth paste forms.

Place the ground meat, cheese, parsley, egg yolk, garlic, salt, and pepper to taste in a medium bow. Add the bread mixture and combine until evenly mixed. Shape 3 tablespoons of the mixture into a 1 1/2-inch round meatball to make about 14 meatballs total.

Pour the vegetable oil into a 10- or 11-inch sauté pan to a depth of 1/4 inch. Turn the heat to medium-high. After several minutes, test the oil with the edge of a meatball. When the oil sizzles, add the meatballs in a single layer. Fry, turning several times, until nicely browned on all sides, about 10 minutes. Keep the oil sizzling but not smoking. Transfer the browned meatballs to a plate lined with paper towels and set aside.

Bring 4 quarts water to a rolling boil in a large pot.

Discard the oil in the pan, but leave behind any browned bits. Add the olive oil and garlic and sauté, scraping up the browned bits, just until the garlic is golden, about 30 seconds. Add the tomatoes, bring to a simmer, and cook until the sauce thickens, about 10 minutes. Stir in the basil and salt and pepper to taste. Add the meatballs and simmer, turning them occasionally, until heated through, about 5 minutes. Keep warm over low heat.

Add 1 tablespoon salt and the pasta to the boiling water and stir to separate the noodles. Cook until al dente, drain, and return to the pot. Ladle several large spoonfuls of the sauce over the spaghetti and toss until the noodles are well coated.

Serve pasta with meatballs, remaining sauce, and parmesan cheese.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Cook pasta in boiling water for 8 to 10 minutes.

Mix eggs, ricotta, half the mozzarella, half the parmesan, parsley, salt, and pepper until combined. Stuff cooked shells with ricotta mixture and place in a 9 by 13 inch baking dish.

Combine pasta sauce, mushrooms, and reserved mozzarella and parmesan. Pour over stuffed shells.

Bake 45 to 60 minutes.

Combine the egg, water, salt, and oil just until barely mixed. Make a well in the flour and drop the egg mixture into it. Work it with your hands, folding the flour over the egg until the dough can be rolled into a ball and comes clean from the hands. Knead the dough and let it stand covered for about an hour.

Beat the ricotta cheese, then beat in the eggs one at a time. Add the parsley, parmesan cheese, and salt and pepper to taste. Divide the dough in half. Roll out the halves one at a time, stretching and sprinkling it with flour in between each roll. Repeat about 10 times until the dough is translucent and paper-thin. Divide the sheet of dough into two equal oblong pieces. Score one sheet to divide it into 2- or 3 - inch squares. Place 2-3 teaspoons of pasta filling in each square. Place the second sheet of pasta over the filling. Press the pasta together around each mound of filling with your fingers. Cut lengthwise into strips, and then cut each strip into squares. Dry the squares on a rack for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, turning the squares over halfway through.

Simmer the tomatoes, onion, celery, parsley, bay leaf, and thyme for 30 minutes.

Press through a sieve to remove the cloves, leaves, and seeds. (The sauce should be very pulpy.) Melt 3 Tablespoons butter. Blend in 2 Tablespoons flour. Add the tomato sauce and 1/4 teaspoon sugar. Simmer and stir for 5 to 10 minutes. Add fresh basil just before serving.

Boil the ravioli, six at a time, until al dente. Remove with a skimmer. Serve with tomato sauce.